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IP: Frying on small craft
From: David Farber <dave () farber net>
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 20:15:08 -0500
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 12:02:20 -0800 From: "Janos G." <janos451 () earthlink net> Subject: Frying on small craft To: slg () ex com Cc: farber () cis upenn edu X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4807.1700 Enjoyed your small-craft adventure (even if you didn't...:), want to let you know things are vastly different in Europe. See the top of this pre-Thanksgiving report, ignore the rest if you must. Berlin on $5 a Day Ha, ha, ha a good one! Does anybody even remember Arthur Frommer? At any rate, here are my simple-minded practical travel tips in this Difficult Year of 2001, while waiting for the buzz Airline flight to London at Berlin's Schönefeld Airport. I arrived two hours before the flight, but there is no one here yet I am told they'll open check-in maybe an hour before the flight. See Items 1 and 2 below. 1. Use small airlines and small airports. They function as if 9/11 never happened. (Still, don't run up on a down escalator. Not in Atlanta, not here.) 2. Travel on weekends. Nobody else does. Well, at least, not Germans. Schönefeld is also used by Aeroflot (yep, it's still operating) and a variety of exotic airlines and there is a bit of weekend travel by exotic travelers, but not much. 3. Don't worry about advance hotel, theater, etc. reservations. The place is wide open. 4. Go on the Web to hunt for bargains, but engage the other party in e-mail, don't just sign up for an attractive room rate. I haven't paid for than $80 in London, Berlin and Dresden for perfectly good hotels, but I weeded out in advance the bad guys who didn't respond or seemed uninterested in doing business. For specific recommendations, see below. 5. There is no point is "selling" London, so I won't, but let me warmly and strongly endorse Berlin. To me, it's today's most varied, interesting travel destination anywhere. In addition to remnants of "classical Berlin" (the architecture, three opera houses, six orchestras, a zillion theaters), there are living-history manifestations of the Third Reich, the divided Germany, the Berlin Wall and then a dazzling, still-emerging 21st century sci-fi city. 6. Use Berlin's fabulous public transportation without knowledge of language, maps or fear. The combination of U and S bahn will take you anywhere, quickly and efficiently, and the facilities are guarded by jolly, old-fashioned police. It's a joy. 7. I saw no indication of public-safety issues, but it is a city of 4 million people (most of which feels like quiet, small towns!), so there must be some bad guys around. If this is an issue for you, stay near the US embassy (near the corner of Unter den Linden and Friedrichstrasse), where several panzer divisions are blocking a four-block radius, guns at the ready. Chances of getting mugged in this area are nil. 8. I recommend the Hotel Unter den Linden in this "safety zone" for its prices, location (minutes from the Friedrichstrasse train station, the Komische Oper, the Staatsoper, Checkpoint Charlie [yup, it's there], the Brandenburg Gate and Alexanderplatz, the Reichstag, etc.), clean, efficient operation and its clientele. While nearby hotels cater to foreign tourists (or try to) at twice or thrice the price, this hotel is frequented mostly by German travelers. Still, if your idea of Hawaii is Waikiki, you may want to avoid too much local color here too, and forsake the un-continental breakfast whose variety and riches put "full English breakfast" to shame. (I'd go easy on the herring, however.) 9. If you want to blend in with the natives even more thoroughly, tint your hair an ugly shade of red (if you're a lady between 15 and 50), and say "good day" when you meet people, wish them a "beautiful day" when you leave, or, in case of friends, use "tschüss" which is a bit like ciao. 10. To "do" Berlin takes about a week at my pace. For the short version, take a bus tour for an overview. Then a few must-see places: the Reichstag (from the top of that amazing glass dome, you'll get a good general orientation), the future urban environment at and around Potsdammerplatz, the cultural center around the Berlin Philharmonic building (no longer called Circus Karajan, I wonder why.), and then just walk your shoes to a pulp in various neighborhoods. 11. Except for a special event such as last night's Domingo gala, don't worry about making advance arrangements for tickets. Opera houses are half full (or empty), the Komische Oper (your best value for the money) is even worse (better). Tschüss, y'all! Save a bit of turkey for me. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Janos Gereben Post Newspaper Group www.sfcv.org janos451 () earthlink net
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