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IP: Frying on small craft


From: David Farber <dave () farber net>
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 20:15:08 -0500


Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 12:02:20 -0800
From: "Janos G." <janos451 () earthlink net>
Subject: Frying on small craft
To: slg () ex com
Cc: farber () cis upenn edu
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4807.1700

Enjoyed your small-craft adventure (even if you didn't...:), want to let you
know things are vastly different in Europe. See the top of this
pre-Thanksgiving report, ignore the rest if you must.

Berlin on $5 a Day


Ha, ha, ha a good one! Does anybody even remember Arthur Frommer?


At any rate, here are my simple-minded practical travel tips in this
Difficult Year of 2001, while waiting for the buzz Airline flight to London
at Berlin's Schönefeld Airport. I arrived two hours before the flight, but
there is no one here yet I am told they'll open check-in maybe an hour
before the flight. See Items 1 and 2 below.

1.         Use small airlines and small airports. They function as if 9/11
never happened. (Still, don't run up on a down escalator. Not in Atlanta,
not here.)

2.         Travel on weekends. Nobody else does. Well, at least, not
Germans. Schönefeld is also used by Aeroflot (yep, it's still operating) and
a variety of exotic airlines and there is a bit of weekend travel by exotic
travelers, but not much.

3.         Don't worry about advance hotel, theater, etc. reservations. The
place is wide open.

4.         Go on the Web to hunt for bargains, but engage the other party in
e-mail, don't just sign up for an attractive room rate. I haven't paid for
than $80 in London, Berlin and Dresden for perfectly good hotels, but I
weeded out in advance the bad guys who didn't respond or seemed uninterested
in doing business. For specific recommendations, see below.

5.         There is no point is "selling" London, so I won't, but let me
warmly and strongly endorse Berlin. To me, it's today's most varied,
interesting travel destination anywhere. In addition to remnants of
"classical Berlin" (the architecture, three opera houses, six orchestras, a
zillion theaters), there are living-history manifestations of the Third
Reich, the divided Germany, the Berlin Wall and then a dazzling,
still-emerging 21st century sci-fi city.

6.         Use Berlin's fabulous public transportation without knowledge of
language, maps or fear. The combination of U and S bahn will take you
anywhere, quickly and efficiently, and the facilities are guarded by jolly,
old-fashioned police. It's a joy.

7.         I saw no indication of public-safety issues, but it is a city of
4 million people (most of which feels like quiet, small towns!), so there
must be some bad guys around. If this is an issue for you, stay near the US
embassy (near the corner of Unter den Linden and Friedrichstrasse), where
several panzer divisions are blocking a four-block radius, guns at the
ready. Chances of getting mugged in this area are nil.

8.         I recommend the Hotel Unter den Linden in this "safety zone" for
its prices, location (minutes from the Friedrichstrasse train station, the
Komische Oper, the Staatsoper, Checkpoint Charlie [yup, it's there], the
Brandenburg Gate and Alexanderplatz, the Reichstag, etc.), clean, efficient
operation and its clientele. While nearby hotels cater to foreign tourists
(or try to) at twice or thrice the price, this hotel is frequented mostly by
German travelers. Still, if your idea of Hawaii is Waikiki, you may want to
avoid too much local color here too, and forsake the un-continental
breakfast whose variety and riches put "full English breakfast" to shame.
(I'd go easy on the herring, however.)

9.         If you want to blend in with the natives even more thoroughly,
tint your hair an ugly shade of red (if you're a lady between 15 and 50),
and say "good day" when you meet people, wish them a "beautiful day" when
you leave, or, in case of friends, use "tschüss" which is a bit like ciao.

10.         To "do" Berlin takes about a week at my pace. For the short
version, take a bus tour for an overview. Then a few must-see places: the
Reichstag (from the top of that amazing glass dome, you'll get a good
general orientation), the future urban environment at and around
Potsdammerplatz, the cultural center around the Berlin Philharmonic building
(no longer called Circus Karajan, I wonder why.), and then just walk your
shoes to a pulp in various neighborhoods.

11.         Except for a special event such as last night's Domingo gala,
don't worry about making advance arrangements for tickets. Opera houses are
half full (or empty), the Komische Oper (your best value for the money) is
even worse (better).


Tschüss, y'all! Save a bit of turkey for me.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Janos Gereben
Post Newspaper Group
www.sfcv.org
janos451 () earthlink net

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