IP: Good Ol' Boy Network Gets Some Culinary Rewiring -- end of an era in Boston

[David Farber <dave () farber net>]

> BOSTON -- The doors are shut tight. So where, with Locke-Ober abruptly 
> closed, does one turn for the food and atmosphere known fondly as "cold 
> roast Boston?"
>
> An institution here since its founding in 1875, Locke-Ober was the city's 
> link to an era when men in business suits drank too much at noontime and 
> lunched on slabs of prime red meat. The fabled restaurant on the alley 
> where the patriot Sam Adams made his home felt like a musty old men's 
> club--reluctantly allowing women at its downstairs bar about 15 years ago. 
> The food, served by white-jacketed waiters who spent their lives at 
> Locke-Ober, was vintage men's club too: heavy on the sauce, in every sense 
> of that word.
>
> Last weekend, a sign told would-be diners that the culinary alcazar of 
> Boston's old guard was closed for renovations. Employees received barely 
> any more notice that Locke-Ober was out of business. The sudden shutdown 
> was a blow to old Boston--and a concession, in effect, that the city's new 
> blood has different tastes than its blue blood.
>
> Adding to the shock of losing the landmark, the Boston Globe reported that 
> Locke-Ober would reopen in the fall under the scepter of the city's 
> nouvelle cuisine queen, Lydia Shire. Consider the prospect of coulis of 
> quail's egg displacing baked scrod. That is the effect of the impending 
> changeover.


<snip>

http://www.latimes.com/news/nationworld/nation/la-080101locke.story



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