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IP: Good Ol' Boy Network Gets Some Culinary Rewiring -- end of an era in Boston
From: David Farber <dave () farber net>
Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2001 06:48:35 -0400
BOSTON -- The doors are shut tight. So where, with Locke-Ober abruptly closed, does one turn for the food and atmosphere known fondly as "cold roast Boston?" An institution here since its founding in 1875, Locke-Ober was the city's link to an era when men in business suits drank too much at noontime and lunched on slabs of prime red meat. The fabled restaurant on the alley where the patriot Sam Adams made his home felt like a musty old men's club--reluctantly allowing women at its downstairs bar about 15 years ago. The food, served by white-jacketed waiters who spent their lives at Locke-Ober, was vintage men's club too: heavy on the sauce, in every sense of that word. Last weekend, a sign told would-be diners that the culinary alcazar of Boston's old guard was closed for renovations. Employees received barely any more notice that Locke-Ober was out of business. The sudden shutdown was a blow to old Boston--and a concession, in effect, that the city's new blood has different tastes than its blue blood. Adding to the shock of losing the landmark, the Boston Globe reported that Locke-Ober would reopen in the fall under the scepter of the city's nouvelle cuisine queen, Lydia Shire. Consider the prospect of coulis of quail's egg displacing baked scrod. That is the effect of the impending changeover.
<snip> http://www.latimes.com/news/nationworld/nation/la-080101locke.story For archives see: http://www.interesting-people.org/
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- IP: Good Ol' Boy Network Gets Some Culinary Rewiring -- end of an era in Boston David Farber (Aug 01)